Review – The Spey Fumare and Trutina

I’ve reviewed a few releases from Spey Distillery before, in fact I was lucky enough to have a private tour of the distillery with manager (and whisky legend) Sandy Jamieson last year. You can also catch up with Sandys Desert Island Dram nomination here.

As a brand, Spey certainly flies under the radar of most scotch drinkers as the majority of their sales are in (and are targeted at) the asian markets, which explains the use of Michael Owen as a brand ambassador.

The beautiful Spey distillery is located a few miles from Drumguish and has a production capacity of around 600,000 litres a year.

Interestingly their bottles are made by a French manufacturer that specialises in perfume bottles and uses a very high quality grade of glass.

I managed a sneak preview with Spey’s Commercial Manager Paul at The Whisky Show in London earlier this year. FYI if you bump into a Commercial Manager its always worth enquiring what they have in their briefcase…

The Trutina and Fumare expressions both have their roots in Latin. Trutina signifies something balanced and pure whereas Fumare, Latin for smoky, marks the first ever peated expression released from the Spey distillery.

Trutina, Spey Distillery, OB, NAS, 46%abv, press sample (available here)

The nose is floral and light with some subtle fruity tones. Notably unripe pineapple and bananas. There is a crisp, fresh feeling to the nose.

The palate has a herbaceous top note and is perfumed, light and crisp. There are layers of savoury and sweet flavours here with a salted caramel white chocolate essence and, after a while an underlying creaminess emerges as it moves towards the finish.
This is an elegant and perfumed whisky.

Nothing wrong with this whisky but in all honesty it’s not really my kind of dram, however it is well balanced and to its credit is non chill-filtered and bottled at what I would say is a perfect abv for the product.

Fumare, Spey Distillery, OB, NAS, 46%abv, press sample (available here)

The nose begins with a light peat and some tangy yet mild phenols. Tropical fruit notes emerge among some coastal and ashy elements.

The palate is more peated than the nose would indicate, very pleasant. There are elements of damp newspaper and a fruity feeling underneath the predominant (but never overpowering) peat. Brine notes emerge after more time in the glass.

The finish has a slightly drying minerality appearing. The peat lingers but is never aggressive, just fades away gently.

I’ve tried a few peated Speysiders recently and although I have never really been keen on the genre as a whole this is really quite drinkable and is a pleasant dram indeed.

No word yet on release dates or prices at the time of writing but I can see myself seeking out a bottle of this one.